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Newport, OR - The Oregon Aquarium is one of the best sightseeing values to be had on the Oregon Coast, and a half-day visit should top the list of any family’s priorities for activities while vacationing on—or road-tripping through—the Central Oregon coast.

The aquarium may keep you entertained and exploring for hours, which makes it an especially great site to visit with energetic children. Start out in the Oddwater exhibit, and get a load of all manner of strange looking sea life, including lion fish, enormous crabs, gorgeous jellyfish, and friends. But when your tots eventually tire of staring at fish and tanks—even from the inside out, move on to the thrilling stingray touch pool (no worries, the barbs are trimmed). After that, let your kids get physical with starfish and sea anemone at the next touch pool.

Then it’s time for fresh air and freedom outside, where a network of faux sea caves and arches lead you to and through views of Oregon’s harbor seals, sea lions, and sea otters (the only sea otters you’ll find in Oregon nowadays)—from both above and under the water. If you’re lucky, the sea lions will put on their underwater parade while you watch, taking turns charging you (all in fun), at one of the viewing windows. We also laughed ourselves silly while visiting with a sleepy sea otter docked against the glass who suddenly decided to show off his summersaults, then went right back to his nap. With a 90,000 gallon main pool for the sea lions and additional outdoor pools, there are many viewing windows and chances to see these sea creatures from every angle.

Next, you’ll bring your brood through the outdoor aviary, where Oregon’s sea birds abound, including the popular puffin. You can play “I spy” to see where all of the sea birds are perched throughout a 30-foot rocky cliff, or watch through more underwater viewing windows as they dive beneath the water for fish.

Perhaps everybody’s favorite attraction though, and the one you’ll want to save for last, is the Passages of the Deep exhibit. Here you’ll walk through the tunnel tanks, including the fabulous, crowd-pleasing shark tank. Inside these aquariums, you’ll enjoy a 180-degree view and feel like you’re swimming with the big fish. And don’t forget to look down through the floor windows where you’ll see more swimmers and part of an old shipwreck.

Good to know:
The aquarium is a great place to let kids stretch their legs and burn off their energy, but with adventurous toddlers, you may be glad to have a safety harness to make sure they stick close to you through the darker, more crowded Oddwater area. If your child tires mid-way, you can always return to your car to get your stroller, or rent one from the aquarium for $5 single or $7 for a double. The aquarium’s strollers have terrific pneumatic wheels and steering handles that make them ideal for wheeling through the light gravel in the outdoor exhibits. As you might expect, restrooms are equipped with diaper changing tables. There is a museum restaurant and gift shop to meet your nutritional and “souvenirial” needs. There is also an outdoor children’s play area with climb-on sculptures of sea animals and benches for supervising parents where you can burn off any extra energy (or at least your child’s) before getting back into your car.

When you go:
Newport is located along Highway 101 approximately half-way between the Washington and California borders (see map). The least-curvy, and most direct route from I-5 to Newport is Highway 20, which heads west from the exit for Hwy 34 / Corvallis (just south of the Albany exits). From Cannon Beach, it’s a 2.5-hour drive meandering along the coast with plenty of interesting places to stop, build sand castles, picnic, or shop (sans sales tax) along the way. The aquarium is located at 2820 SE Ferry Slip Road. See this map for an overview of Newport and its points of interest. Aquarium admission is free for children through 2 years, and $8.75 for children 3 through 12 years. Adults pay $14.25.

Explore some more:
Newport’s Historic Bayfront is just a 5 minute drive from the aquarium, and is a terrific stop to get your Newport tourist fix of trinket shops, galleries, and restaurants while at the same time getting a feel for the city’s fishing and crabbing history that continues to live on as one of its main industries today. In fact, you can eat an ice cream cone while you watch the fishing boats come and go and gawk at the impressive catches and clattering crab rings. Don’t worry, adjacent to the cannery, you can buy your own steamer clams or crab to take with you.

If you’re not in the mood to do your own cooking, I recommend The Whale’s Tale here on the Bayfront for breakfast and Mo’s Annex with its Yaquina Bay view tables (across the street from the original Mo’s) for a filling budget lunch of clam chowder and garlic cheese bread (they’ve got hotdogs and other kid-pleasers, too). However, my mother, who has been eating Oregon coast clam chowder since childhood, will tell you the best “restaurant chowder” to be had is at The Chowder Bowl down at Nye Beach. (For the best clam chowder, however, you’d have to follow my great grandma’s recipe.)

Nye Beach has been called the first “tourist playground” on the Oregon Coast, having drawn visitors since the late 19th century and before it could even be accessed by roads. My mother and aunt still have fond memories of teenage visits to the old Natatorium, but like so many bustling pleasure palaces, it eventually fell into disrepair and was leveled in 1967, as Nye Beach entered a somewhat seedy era. You’d never know it now. This is the decidedly hip district now, with cool little restaurants and cafes, and interesting lodgings like the Sylvia Beach Hotel with author-themed rooms, posh decor, and ready reading–young children understandably not welcome. Young children, however, are more than welcome on sandy Nye Beach itself, and you’ll find ample public parking at the sand’s edge where the Natatorium once stood. You can read more about the history of Nye Beach here.

Stay and play:
You’ll find family-friendly accommodations for every budget throughout Newport. The Chamber of Commerce has a helpful list of campgrounds, hotels, and vacation rentals you can see here. Not all of the small inns or B&Bs allow children, or those under a certain age, so be sure to check their policies for any minimum ages. Numerous vacation rentals and cottages can be found throughout the area, but families on a budget may appreciate the value of the 2-BR Sky Cottage vacation rental just 2 blocks from Nye Beach. Near the aquarium, the La Quinta Inn has comfortable rooms, including suites, and a complimentary hot breakfast buffet kids are sure to love thanks to the Belgian waffle bar (sure, maybe they’ll eat the other stuff, too). To find your best hotel deal in Newport, I recommend searching your dates at Kayak.com

Safe journey,

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children
SUMMER SALE – Save 15% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from “Travels with Baby Books” – Click here!

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Silver Falls State Park, OR – Within moments of entering Silver Falls State Park, I had to wonder how I’d managed to stay away for so many years. It’s not only the largest State Park in Oregon, but it has waterfalls that rival any I’ve seen in Hawaii or Yosemite National Park. I had my earliest experiences at Silver Falls as a girl when I got to be lucky enough each summer to come and get assigned my very own horse to groom and ride for one glorious week of “horse camp.” Naturally, I grew up with the impression that this is what all forests and waterfalls are like. But this time, setting off down the path toward the magnificent 177-foot high South Falls, I marveled that this hasn’t been made a National Park yet. Though I admit, I’m glad it doesn’t pack the crowds we battle at some of the better-known big parks we visit.

This photo that I snapped while standing behind the South Falls only shows a part of the waterfall, but it’s a good example of the landscape you’ll find here and the memorable experiences to be had throughout this park–even if you only take the .5 mile hike to this very vantage point. Standing here, you can feel the roar of the falls travel your bones as the mist settles on your cheeks. There are several short hikes with impressive pay-offs, or you can opt to see all of the water falls on the 7-mile “Trail of Ten Falls” (a.k.a. Canyon Trail). You can view the park’s trail map online as a PDF at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/images/pdf/silverfalls_trailmap.pdf . William Sullivan, author of the “100 Hikes” guidebooks, has some good hiking suggestions for Silver Falls online that may also help you plan your attack.

With ten water falls impressing visitors even at summer’s end (though spring snow melt makes for the most spectacular falls), Silver Falls is truly a special–if not magical–place to visit. Anyone wanting to see Oregon’s lush, green temperate rain forest, will find one of the best examples here. Layer upon layer of ferns and shamrocks, Douglas fir trees, hemlocks, and mossy rocks crowd happily into every view. I marveled as I strolled beside a hedge of maidenhair ferns as high as my hips, and that’s when I saw the fabled “fairy train” caterpillar (black with a row of yellow windows down its side), which my great grandma always said brought good luck. I am lucky to be here, I thought, as I showed the fairy train to my daughters.
Good to know:
While there are some safety fences here and there along the trails, there are still steep staircases, drop offs, and slippery areas on trails, especially where you walk behind the larger falls. With my active toddler wanting (and needing) to be very much on her own two feet, I was glad to have our Safe-Fit backpack harness along for her (with an extra diaper/wipes, snacks, and sippy cup) to attach to my belt loop as a back up (I recommend a carabiner clip for quick attach & release–and of course, a sturdy belt loop).

With smaller children, you’ll want a good backpack or frontpack carrier while on the trails. If you’re wearing a framed backpack carrier, take extra care of your child’s clearance above you if you need to duck beneath an occasional rocky overhang.

As with most lush, green places in Oregon, even a hot sunny day elsewhere may leave you wanting a jacket or at least long sleeves while hiking the falls. You’ll also want to bring along your own water, lunch and/or plenty of snacks if you plan to spend much time in the park since you’ll have a hard time finding it here.

The Pearsons, a local family living near the park, offer some more helpful tips on their own website: http://www.silverfallspark.org/PT/ParkTips.html, including the all-important note that there are no restrooms along the trails, so be sure to use the lovely pit toilets at the parking areas or restrooms at the picnicking/camping areas before you venture out too far.

When you go:
Silver Falls State Park is approximately a 1-hour drive from Portland, and you may save some time during heavy traffic by taking Hwy 99 E. If you come from Salem, or via I-5, it is 26 miles east of Salem on Hwy 22, just be sure to follow the signs for Hwy 214, which will lead you through Silverton and on to the park. You will need to purchase a $3 day-use pass for your visit, unless you are paying a fee to stay overnight in the park or have another Oregon State Parks pass. The park is open year-round, except in the case of a severe weather closure. More information at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_211.php.

Explore some more:
Just 15 minutes down the road, the city of Silverton offers up an irresistible small-town experience that’s stood the test of time and strip malls remarkably well. Seriously, they still have penny parking meters in the picturesque olde downtown and an annual pet parade–and don’t miss the “davenport races” if you happen through town during Homer Davenport Days, named for the late 19th century cartoonist who was born and raised in Silverton.

Antique shops, flea markets, boutiques, bohemian cafes, elegant eateries, and everybody’s favorite greasy spoon (you’ll know when you see it) are all within a pleasant stroll of the small downtown area, which is made all the more charming in summer months by dozens of hanging flower baskets overflowing with petunias (the likes of which will rival any window box in Europe). And if you have the chance, pop by for a show at the independent movie house on the corner where you’ll be treated to a slideshow of inspirational quotes and quick wit before the show, rather than a barrage of violent previews (the popcorn’s not bad either).

Silverton is also home to The Oregon Garden, an 80-acre botanical wonderland with 20 themed gardens and one house by Frank Lloyd Wright. Children under 7 years may visit the Oregon Garden free, and those that do will want to be sure and check out the special “Children’s Garden” made just for them. Note to the stroller set: Yes, it’s very stroller friendly as everything is wheelchair accessible. The Oregon Garden also hosts a summer concert series with names you will know, and children of all ages are welcome at the concerts, with free admission for those under 2 years.

For kicks, you can visit the “Gallon House Covered Bridge” on the edge of town. It used to be the oldest covered bridge in Oregon, but it had to be rebuilt in 1990. When Silverton was dry, this was the place where locals sought their booze in one-gallon home-stilled jugs. Nowadays, however, they can buy their liquor right in town at the one official liquor store–except, ahem, on Sundays (per Oregon state law).

Kids can burn off their extra energy skipping stones on Silver Creek, which runs through downtown Silverton, or running laps across the covered pedestrian bridge that spans the creek. There is also plenty of room to run and romp at the shady City Park in the city’s center. To find it, just follow the signs for the art center, which by the way, is a testament to the number of artists and artisans who have made a home for themselves in this haven. The “First Friday” of each month is a celebration of the resident artists, musicians, and other local creative personalities, and the downtown blocks buzz with locals mingling and enjoying evening exhibits and special events.

Stay and play:
Overnight options right in the park include rustic 1- and 2-bedroom log cabins, modern cabins, modern lodges, two rentable ranches with their own bunkhouses, group camp sites, and individual tent and electrified RV campsites (backcountry camping is not allowed in the park). As you can imagine, it’s a popular place for weddings, family reunions, and group retreats–and with good reason. See the brochure Where to stay at Silver Falls State Park for detailed info on all the lodging options in Silver Falls park.

The Prestigious Tours site has a nice collection of the lodging options in and around Silverton, including the handful of charming small inns, historic B&Bs, and even an “outback bungalow,” though many of these accommodations are best suited to couples (click here to see their directory). Families might consider Cicily’s Guest House, which offers three bedrooms and a furnished kitchen for a flat rate up to 4 guests, and additional guests are welcome for $25 each per night (they’ll even leave your breakfast in the fridge).

In fall of 2008, the Oregon Gardens Resort will also open in Silverton.

Safe journey,

Shelly Rivoli

Author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children SUMMER SALE – Save 15% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from “Travels with Baby Books” – Click here!
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You should know that I have been camping in Oregon since I was an infant. After relocating to California, it took some time to adjust to “bear camping” and the terrible inconvenience of using “bear boxes” and certainly “bear bags.” I mean, there just aren’t any bears in Oregon–or so I like to think. In fact, after being asked to sign a liability waver and an oath declaring that I have not left one stick of chewing gum in my glovebox at Castle Crags, and being advised to remove my children’s car seats from the car overnight in Yosemite (good luck if you’re in a tent), and hiking with jingle bells on my boot laces in the Beartooth Wilderness, I’ve often felt that leaving the bears behind is one of the best parts of camping in Oregon.

So, seeing all the bear warnings on the Newberry National Volcanic Monument web pages as I recently blogged had me scratching my head. Bears? In Oregon? I’m the third (and possibly fourth) generation in my family to camp in the area and I can’t remember ever hearing anyone worry about bears in the campgrounds. Clearly these pages were written by California transplants, I chuckled.

Then Tim reminded me of our adventure near the Idaho border, when we’d left humankind behind at the annual rattlesnake (and bear) feed and festival, then rambled 4 miles down a one-lane rock road overhanging a the deepest river gorge in North America, and for some reason we decided to whip out the camp stove and cook up some beef stroganoff for lunch (don’t worry, we learned this lesson before we had children, and we did make it out of there with all of our noodles intact). “Oh, yeah, that was in Oregon.”

And, he reminded me, there was the bear cub we saw once while rafting the Grande Ronde, where we drifted reluctantly toward the next bend wondering if we would happen upon his mother, too.

And, he reminded me, there was also the bear that had begun feasting on my uncle’s freshly killed deer during a hunting trip a few years ago, not too many miles from my favorite campground. Yes, in Oregon. “Right,” I sighed.

If that weren’t enough, a friend and life-long Californian just told me of how his uncle in Florence, Oregon (where we just spent 3 glorious days–stay tuned) has been at odds with a visiting bear doing damage to his patio birdfeeders at night. “On the coast?!” I exclaimed, sure his sense of Oregon geography and fauna was completely amiss. The answer was an absolute, “Yes,” and he and his family are looking forward to visiting said uncle, and aunt, and bear next month. In Florence. Oregon.

Okay, I humbly accept and acknowledge that there are bears in Oregon, though they fortunately do not frequent the more established campgrounds as they do in many parts of California. I’ve never used a bear box in Oregon. I’ve never listened to a bear raiding the campground dumpsters as I shuddered in my sleeping bag while camping in Oregon. When it comes to rattlesnakes, however, I’ve had no problem accepting their presence in Oregon. And even scorpions can be found there, which comes as a surprise to most people who imagine Oregon as the lush, green haven of rivers and trees they see along its more populous corridor, yet I’ve accepted this bit of reality for some time.

With regards to our recent camping trip at a remote “fisherman’s campground” on the banks of the Deschutes River, I knew that there would be a chance–though remote–of seeing a rattlesnake and even possibly a scorpion. Having a 2-year-old and 4-year-old in camp, I was a little concerned by this prospect, not to mention by the swift river that would be flowing past our camp. I admit, it isn’t the first campground I would choose for my kids at these ages. Yet my husband’s family, having camped at this same campground for around 20 years, assured me that in all this time they’ve never seen a rattlesnake (well, just a couple, but not in an actual campsite) and certainly no scorpions. More of a concern, I was advised, would be the poison oak.

Within 30 minutes of our arrival, my 6-year-old nephew unearthed a small scorpion about 20 feet from where we would pitch our tent. Being from Arizona, he knew exactly what it was. Having just seen the latest Indiana Jones movie, he also knew that the smaller the scorpion, the more dangerous it might be, so he alerted his parents right away. Tim noted several small oval holes in the ground where he’d found it (not far behind Angelina in the picture above) that suggested this scorpion had friends, but thankfully we didn’t see any. What were the chances we’d see a scorpion at all in this campground? Based on years of Rivoli family experience, the odds were very slim. However, I think it’s worth noting that the likelihood of certain wildlife and insect encounters actually increases when you have small children in camp. For example, few of the adults would have taken toy trucks and a stick to the edge of the campsite and started digging. Few adults would also chase a ball into a hedge of poison oak, or poke a stick into a swarming hill of ants or a wasp’s nest to see what would happen.

Similarly, no one had ever had a problem with ticks while camping here in the past. Having both grown up in the Pacific Northwest, neither Tim nor I had never encountered any ticks until we moved to northern California. As we drove westward, toward greener Oregon, we even commented on how nice it is that you don’t have to worry about ticks when you take your kids hiking in Oregon. However, after meeting up several hours later in the Willamette Valley, my siblings-in-law issued a tick advisory–two had already been found among our party. As we dipped Angelina into the bathtub, much to our horror, we discovered a fat tick lodged in the top of her blond little head. At 4 years old, fortunately, she was able to sit quite still while we successfully removed it with tweezers. Again, it was the littler, more adventuresome brush-high people among us who were most likely to happen upon ticks.

Though few among us actually want to see a scorpion, bear, snake, or tick–or other thrilling wildlife–on our outings with the kids, it is good to keep in mind that there is a slim chance it might happen (even in Oregon). That’s why it’s important to begin teaching small children the importance of respecting wildlife and insects early on in life–you might be surprised how much their eager little minds can absorb even at 2 years old. As in the case of the unlikely scorpion, a little knowledge went a long way toward keeping a six-year-old safe.

Here are some tips on how to handle yourself in some wild situations:

How to conduct yourself in bear country
What to do if you see a bear in Yosemite
How to store food in Yosemite
What to do if you find a tick on your child
How to handle snake bites
How to treat a scorpion sting

Mind you, I don’t offer these stories or links to deter you from going camping or hiking with your children. As with taking small children anywhere, into the woods or across the oceans, some might argue that the risks outweigh the benefits, but I disagree. Nature is the real world, and to avoid it is to avoid living a real and authentic life. What better gift can you give your children than an appreciation for nature? Remember, life is short and summer’s even shorter. So pack your picnic and pull on your boots.

Wishing you wild, wonderful, and safe journeys out there,

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children

SUMMER SALE – Save 15% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from “Travels with Baby Books” – Click here!

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Newberry National Volcanic Monument, OR – Approximately 10 miles south of Bend, Oregon on Highway 97, you’ll drive past one of the most newly named national monuments in the U.S.: Newberry National Volcanic Monument.

As it happens, one of the best sites for viewing and accessing the monument is also a terrific place to stop and stretch your legs during road trips–especially if you have energetic children in the car. The Lava Lands Visitor Center is just off Highway 97 roughly 13 miles south of Bend. Be sure to make a note of it if you’ll be traveling through Central Oregon.

While the Lava Lands parking area is situated in a forest of ponderosa pines, you will find an almost Mars-like field of jagged a’a lava (pronounced “ah-ah”) beginning just on the other side of the visitor center, rising up to the Lava Butte cinder cone, which looms 500 feet above the visitor center. Lava Butte is just one of hundreds of cinder cones found throughout the Newberry Crater area, but it’s one of the few you can drive to the top of for a great view of the area.

Newberry Volcano remained active for more than a 500,000 years, right up to its most recent eruption in approximately 600 A.D. Today, you can see the resulting cinder cones, pumice cones, lava flows, a lava cast forest, underground lava tubes, lakes, streams, and waterfalls throughout the 55,000 acres set aside for this national monument.

Inside the Lava Lands Visitor Center, you can learn more about the area’s geological and cultural histories before setting out on the “Trail of Molten Lands,” an interpretive walk through the a’a and giant “lava balls” to the base of Lava Butte. This trail is .75 miles long and is paved the entire way (as shown above), so it provides an easy opportunity for little ones to stretch their own legs as you explore the loop together–though you’ll want your child carrier or your shoulders ready in case their legs tire out along the way. Note to the stroller set: while you could technically push a buggy along this trail, it gets a little steep in places and you might prefer to have your baby in a carrier or sling.

Good to know:
If it’s too hot to spend much time out among the lava rocks, just do your viewing from the visitor center’s patio, then take a stroll down the shady .03 mile “Trail of the Whispering Pines” and watch for chipmunks instead. Back at the air-conditioned visitor center, you’ll find clean restrooms with flush toilets, drinking fountains, and a small gift shop with books, T-shirts, and hats. As there is no food or drink available for purchase here, be sure to bring your own lunch or snacks with you. There are a few picnic tables tucked between pine trees beside the parking area, and it may work out well to take advantage of them while you’re here.


When you go:
The Lava Lands Visitor Center is open from from late April (and sometimes not until early May) through early October. In spring and fall, the center is only open Wednesdays through Saturdays, so visit the website or call if you have any questions about dates of operation: 541-593-2421. You will need either a $5 Day Use pass (purchase at entrance), a $30 annual pass, or other valid recreation pass to visit Lava Lands.

Explore some more:
There is more easy hiking/walking nearby if you have the time and inclination. Here are some highlights that are easy to explore with children, and/or using a baby backpack or child carrier for babies and young toddlers. You’ll need your $5 Day Use pass at each of these sites.

Big Obsidian Flow is another fascinating stop where you can follow a 0.8-mile interpretive trail up and into the mounds of black glass-like obsidian rocks and sprinkling of pumice stones.

Lava River Cave hike takes you on a 1-mile subterranean tour of ancient lava tubes by the light of your own flashlight or rented lantern ($3). Be aware that you will begin with 126 stair steps down, so plan accordingly (child carriers strongly recommended for visitors with babies and toddlers). Bring your jackets, sturdy shoes, and get there before 3 p.m.

Lava Cast Forest hike is an easy 1-mile loop along lava casts of ancient trees created during an eruption 7,000 years ago. The wildflowers here can be lovely in early summer.

And if you’ve got an extra 3 or 4 hours to spare, take your kids to visit the bobcat and other wild animals (and of course other numerous cultural and historical exhibits) at the High Desert Museum just up the road toward Bend.

Stay and play:

There are seven campgrounds within the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Each varies in terms of features and facilities, including availability of drinking water, RV hook-ups, horse stalls, and so on, so check here for details (select from list on right). There are also two “rustic” lakeside resorts with cabin rentals within the monument: East Lake Resort and Paulina Lake Resort. Each offers boat rentals, a general store, and a restaurant. East Lake Resort also has an RV park with water and electricity hook-ups.

Many other campgrounds and resorts can be found throughout this part of Oregon that are not part of the monument. Visit www.recreation.gov to search for additional campgrounds (and cabins, and resorts…) near Bend. The Central Oregon Visitors Association site will also help you locate hotels, vacation rentals, B&B’s, houseboat rentals, cabins, and resorts throughout the area.

Safe journey,

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
SUMMER SALE – Save 15% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from “Travels with Baby Books” – Click here!

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