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Shelly Rivoli with daughter Rosalyn at Chichen Itza.

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Travels with Baby Tips

 

Archived tips from Shelly's syndicated blog. To comment or subscribe visit www.www.travelswithbaby.com/blog.

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Go to archived tips: 1-10   11-20   21-30   31-35  36-43   44-49  50+

 

Tip #43: Kids Cruise Free in Europe 2008 / 2009

 

I won't lie to you, I still flinch each time I try to price travel to Europe for our family of four now... particularly because I can still look back on our foray into France as newlyweds when Tim and I managed to spend 9 days in Paris for $1644 USD, total. Yep, that was airfare for both of us, 2-star hotels (one of course on the Rue de Rivoli), all meals, Metro and RER tickets, museums, and even a couple of tacky souvenirs. Of course, we went in February (not a fountain was running and the gardens weren't much to see), but who can beat a Valentine's Day walk along the Seine and rain-drizzled kisses on the steps of Sacre Coeur?

 

Now we might count ourselves lucky to both fly roundtrip to Europe for that price--and then there are the kids' tickets. At least the kisses are gratis.

 

To those of you hoping to plan a family vacation to Europe in the next year, you might just consider working a cruise into your visit, especially when you consider this: MSC Cruises, an Italian, family-owned cruise line that is not widely known in the US, is letting children 17 years and younger cruise free when they sail with two paying adults.

 

When you can book the adults at 50% or more off the brochure price, and have two children (even teenagers!) cruising and dining with you FREE, you may actually manage to shelter and feed your family for a week onboard for less than you could on land with current exchange rates (and you won't have to live on a diet of jambon crudité). Not to mention, that includes transportation between multiple destinations, with no re-packing required. But where can you go on a cruise in Europe?

 

Here are just a couple of the eye-catching "kids-FREE" itineraries I've noted:

 

7 days RT from Venice, with stops in Bari, Italy; Rhodes, Greece; Athens; Argostoli, Greece; and Dubrovnik, Croatia.

 

8 days RT from Barcelona, with stops in: Genoa, Italy; Malaga, Spain; Cadiz, Spain; Lisbon, Portugal; Gibraltar, UK Ter.; and Alicante, Spain. 

 

Surprisingly, I haven't seen this offer widely advertised--or even mentioned on many cruise websites, even when I go through the motions of of pricing qualifying MSC cruises (read MSC's explanation of the offer here). Rest assured you can get this deal, however, and on all MSC Mediterranean cruises departing now through 2009--even during peak seasons and school vacations (though the discount you can get on your adult price will vary).   

 

The best site I've found for navigating to and through these kids-FREE cruises online--and comparing available discounts and dates--is www.vacationstogo.com. You will have to sign up for their Fast Deals email, but if you're considering cruising at all, I recommend this site as a resource--and no I don't get a kick-back for your click-through, darn it.) To see for yourself, follow these steps:

 

- Click the orange "Find a Deal" button

- Choose the region: Mediterranean

- Choose the month (plus one if you like)

- Choose the cruise line: MSC Cruises

- Click "Show me the deals"

 

You'll see a list of all the departure dates during the month(s) along with some other basic details--including "Kids Free" for each of these cruises. Click the FastDeals number to see the specific itinerary and category discounted prices for each departure.

 

Since MSC is an Italian, family-owned cruise line, you can bet you'll still be surrounded by other cultures and languages, even as you cruise--which is of course at least half the reason for venturing overseas. Paid babysitting and free supervised activities are also available for potty-trained children 3 years and older on most of these cruises.

 

For more help picking and planning a cruise with babies and small children, be sure to check out Part 7 of Travels with Baby.

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
PUBLISHER'S DISCOUNT - Get 15% off Travels with Baby  & qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books"

 

 

Tip #42: Keep a Toddler Content Flying Overseas

 

I received this note from Liana with the subject line:

Portugal with 16 Month Old

 

"Hi Shelly,

 

Thanks for writing such a helpful book with great tips.

 

I know that I'm being a real anal Annie, but I'm trying to come up with ideas of how to entertain my daughter Zara as we travel to Portugal in 2 weeks. The trip to Portugal will hopefully not be too bad since it will be overnight, but the return will be in the daytime.

 

My issue is that Zara still has the attention span of a gnat. She doesn't attend to much for very long, unless she is exhausted. Any ideas of things we can do in her car seat to pass the time? I've tired Elmo videos and Blues Clues but they don't seem to interest her for very long.

 

I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!"

 

---

 

My two cents:

 

As you say, it's hard to keep children entertained with videos for too long at 16 months, though it can help some overtired toddlers finally settle in for slumber in flight. New toys, a Travel Magna Doodle, and board books will likely catch her attention for some amount of time, but one gimmick that never seems to fail for us is what we call the "bag of tricks." I use some sort of a child's purse, cosmetics or other small bag, preferably one with a see-through panel (a large slide-lock bag works wonders in a pinch), and fill it with an eclectic assortment of toys and gadgets. The presentation of the items--or perhaps the process of discovering them one at a time--seems to make the contents much more interesting to children in this age range. You might consider a couple of very small stuffed animals, a bath toy, a teething toy, a comb, a small (preferably baby-safe) mirror, and measuring spoons from your kitchen drawer. Ideally, you'll have a second small "bag of tricks" to surprise her on the flight home.

 

Assuming your daughter's car seat is a "convertible" model, you might consider installing it rear-facing for your flight (unless there's a personal TV screen you want to utilize on the seat in front of her). It may be much easier to interact with her and keep her happy in flight if you are facing each other, plus you'll have the added advantage that she can't kick the forward passenger's seat or obsess over the fold-out tray.
 

You might both appreciate a travel tray to attach to her car seat during the flight, since airplane trays are small and often don't fold out at the right height to use with car seats. I've had good results with the "Snack & Play Travel Tray" that has a very large surface area (big enough for coloring books) with a tall edge around 3 sides that is very effective in keeping snacks, sippy cups, crayons, and various toys from constantly falling out of her reach and into the "Mommy! Mommy! Uh!" zone next to your feet. It's very light and rolls up fairly compactly (also might work on your stroller and is helpful on road trips).

 

Also, be sure to plan occasional walks around the cabin to help her stretch her legs (it may do wonders for her digestion as well as her disposition) and be sure to take advantage of any strangers who show an interest in waving and greeting her, or playing peek-a-boo. If there are other toddlers on your flight, she'll likely enjoy paying brief visits to them at their seats--and may even be willing to swap a toy or two.

 

Your two cents:

So traveling parents out there, what is YOUR secret weapon for keeping your babies and toddlers entertained on long flights? And any other tips or advice you'd offer to Liana?

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
PUBLISHER'S DISCOUNT - Get 15% off Travels with Baby  & qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books"

 

 

 

 

Tip #41: Take a Trip with Phil (and Ted)

 

In an ideal world, no one would ever consider spending extra money on a stroller or a car seat just for travel--they would have had the advantage of owning a travel-friendly model in the first place. I wish that every new parent could start out with a stroller that they are just as happy getting in and out of the car, on and off public transportation, and pushing through the park at naptime as s they are zipping it through the X-ray at airport security and carrying it up the stairs at the pensione. In reality, however, this is rarely the case.

 

When it comes to the wild and wacky world of portacribs, Pack N' Plays, and play yards, who can comprehend how much money is spent on new models and how many are given at baby showers each year? Yet when it comes time to travel, how many parents begrudge the these heavy, bulky, unwieldy contraptions--and even opt to just leave them behind? Consider the Graco "Portable" Pack N Play that weighs a whopping 30 lbs, and even Combi's sparse "Lightweight" Jazz Play Yard still weighs 24.5 lbs (and no one's boasting about a compact fold for any of these products).

 

"Travel beds" as I call them are certainly a smarter way to go, and can be as useful at home as in the hotel or tent--and even on the beach in some cases. There are plenty of options out there now (see my top picks in review at: http://www.travelswithbaby.com/gear/travel_beds.htm), but one I'm particularly excited about right now is Phil & Ted's Traveller Full-Size Travel Crib (the even better replacement to their T2 Travel Cot). So what's so great about the Traveller?

 

I'll start by saying it weighs a mere 8 lbs.--less than some infants weigh at birth. Yet it offers all the advantages of a traditional play yard, plus many additional advantages.

  • Use it from birth up through 3 years (really--read on)

  • No weight limit for your child

  • Zipping screen cover (included) protects against insects and helps create a tent within your tent on cold nights camping

  • Rugged fabrics let you take it onto the beach, down by the river, into the woods, out in the desert, etcetera

  • Screen mesh gives visibility and ventilation but blocks a fair amount of wind

  • Therm-a-Rest-style backpacker's mattress gives extra insulation as well as cushioning

  • Optional UPF 80 sun shield zips to the top for extra sun protection outdoors (sold separately)

  • Rubber feet won't scratch hardwood floors or tile when used indoors

  • Side panel unzips when desired (yes!)

That final point, IMHO, puts the Traveller over the top. Other models, like the BabyBjorn Travel Crib Light give you the toddler containment advantage, and the Peapod and Peapod Plus give you the advantage of a "play tent" indoors or out. But once your child loses patience with being completely contained (or maxes out on height), the BabyBjorn crib is out. And once your child can stand (esp. taller than the tent) and protest loudly enough, the Peapods cease to work well for containment--though they may live on as play tents and still work for sleeping once your child agrees to stay put.

 

The Traveller, on the other hand, gives the advantage of baby & toddler confinement (keeping her out of the campfire while you cook and from exploring Grandma's house unsupervised after waking from her nap), with the advantage of opening up on one side to double as a shaded play tent on the beach. Plus it can continue to serve as a travel bed for your older toddler and even preschooler (up to 50" tall) by offering in-and-out privileges through the open side. Chances are, you'll even make use of the backpacker's mattress for your child well beyond her days in the Traveller.

 

For more details about Phil & Ted's Traveller, other travel beds, and more recommended gadgets and gear for travel with small children in an ideal (or less than ideal) world, check out my reviews of great products and gear for travel. And in case you know any expectant parents that are considering registering for a play yard... I hope you'll pass this along.

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
PUBLISHER'S DISCOUNT - Get 15% off Travels with Baby  & qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books"

 

 

Tip #40: Be Enchanted Beside I-5

 

Enchanted Forest with Rivoli cousinsSalem, OR - Anyone who has ever held fast to his own vision against all reason and odds can appreciate the story of how Roger Tofte's Enchanted Forest came to be (read it here). And most families traveling the I-5 corridor through Oregon with toddlers through tweens will find much to appreciate in this one-of-a-kind--and refreshingly uncommercial--theme park that has continued to evolve over the past thirty-seven years.

 

First of all, you have to appreciate that, unlike most theme parks that land in the middle of enormous paved lots, the Enchanted Forest really exists in a forest of evergreens, maples, rhododendron, and ferns. Then there's the realization that this place was created by two generations of the Tofte family--which you'll still see making the rounds and maintaining the park in person today. Hand-sculpted cement works, hand-painted murals, and even the music and lyrics you'll hear at shows within the park were all created by members of the Tofte Family.

 

Upon entering the park, you'll pass through Sleeping Beauty's castle (shown above with Rivoli cousins) and start up the original Storybook Lane, where Roger Tofte's unique creations still tell the tales of favorite fairytale heroes and nursery rhyme characters. You'll notice the personal touches on everything from the Three Bears' real log cabin to the Seven Dwarves' diamond mine--both of which you'll get to enter and explore on your own two feet. Stagger through he Crooked Man's house (though not for a crooked mile!), find your way through a maze, step into a witch's mouth and slide out her ear. The adventurous can even crawl through Alice in Wonderland's rabbit hole (not for the claustrophobic). At the end of Storybook Lane awaits the glorious shoe slide, where the old woman watches over the giggly parade of kids and adults who shoot down the slope on blankets. With no extra fee or tickets required, the shoe slide keeps many kids busy (and burning energy hiking back up to the top) for quite some time.

 

When you're ready to move on, ramble into Tofteville, an old west town with raised wooden sidewalks to stroll along and enjoy the comical displays of shops and wild west dental offices within, plus a shooting gallery, remote control boats, a fort to explore with Indian caves and another great ticketless slide (must be 3 yrs for this slide). You can even pop on some costumes and take your photo with Abe Lincoln. At the far end of "town," you'll find the haunted house--one scary enough that you'll sometimes see people exit right back through the front door! (You have been warned.)  

 

Then it's on to the rides, where you'll find everything from a collection of kiddie rides (some with no height requirement when accompanied by adult) on up to the Ice Mountain bobsled coaster and Big Timber Log Ride. Extra tickets must be purchased for these rides. Little tikes love the baby bumper boats, which have no height requirement (just under 80 lbs!) and are attended by an in-pool helper wearing waders. Again, Ice Mountain and the Big Timber Log Ride are incorporated right into the landscape. In fact, the log ride even takes you through an old lumber mill in the trees (created by Tofte) before switching to a brief section of roller coaster track, then plunging riders down an exhilarating watery drop off (ponchos provided, if desired). Kids must be 36" to ride on Ice Mountain, and 40" to go on the log ride with an adult or 48" to go it alone.

 

The Challenge of Mondor is the Enchanted Forest's newest ride, and this is the one part of the park that I have to admit has me scratching my head. Don't get me wrong, it's quite a popular ride, and people seem to enjoy it. But something about its description as a "beautiful and slow moving ride" where you glide along in your trackless car listening to new age music--all the while shooting your infrared gun as fast as you possibly can at targets on "evil creatures" gaining points for each time you connect even with the same target, well it strikes me as a little surreal. However, I admit I was feeling quite proud after scoring higher than my NRA-card-carrying brother-in-law on my maiden trek through Mondor (hee-hee).

 

There is still more to see and explore after the rides, including the summer comedy theater featuring original musical productions by Tofte's talented daughter Susan (since 1973),  and the humorous mechanized English Village featuring animatronic gossipy neighbors created by Tofte's son Ken and more original hand-cement sculpture by Roger Tofte. Here you won't want to miss Pinnochio's workshop (head up the stairs into the village buildings) or the Fantasy Fountains Water & Light Show where you can enjoy a slice of pizza while you watch the show, if you like. 

 

At the bottom of the English Village, near the entrance and exit, you'll find hamburgers, hot dogs, fries, and ice cream, with picnicking areas--guests are welcome to bring their own picnics as well.

 

Good to know:
The Enchanted Forest is open year round, but is closed during weekdays from September (day after Labor Day) until May 1st each year. You can push a stroller through the park's meandering trails, but once your child is a good walker, you may be happiest leaving the stroller behind and traversing the park and exhibits on foot. Restrooms with diaper changing tables are located in Tofteville and near the entrance/exit. Ride tickets can be purchased individually, or ride bracelets can be purchased for kids 36" tall / 3 years and older (kids under 36" are better off getting individual tickets for the few rides they'll go on). General admission is $9.50 adults, $8.50 seniors 62+, $8.50 children 3 to 12 yrs, and children 2 years and younger are free.

 

When you go:

The Enchanted Forest is a worthy attraction on its own, but it definitely makes a great 2-3 hour break during family road trips. It is located right beside I-5 at 8462 Enchanted Way in what is technically Turner, Oregon. The Enchanted Forest is approximately 1 hour south of Portland, 1 hour north of Eugene, and 4 hours north of Ashland, all via I-5. From Newport, plan on 1.5 to 2 hours via Highway 20, and from Bend you will drive about 2.5 hours via Highway 22. Whether arriving from north or south, you will take the Sunnyside-Turner Exit and jog on Delaney St. to Enchanted Way. Parking is free and easy. For more information call 503-371-4242 or visit www.enchantedforest.com.

 

Explore some more:

If you'll be spending more time in the area, two other great Salem sights with children are the Riverfront Park with its carousel of hand-carved horses and A.C. Gilbert's Discovery Village where kids may explore and experiment for hours between the bubble room, recycling reality theater (where you watch yourself on TV), follow the Magic School Bus characters on a journey through the human body, learn how to create toys from common household goods, go on a "Children's Trip to China," take turns shopping and ringing up friends in a pint-size grocery store, and that's just the beginning of the activities you'll find here. Babies and toddlers under 3 years will find a quiet play space designed just for them in the Toddler Room--also a peaceful place to stop and nurse a younger sibling while the big kids continue their discoveries. 

 

Stay and play:

For a little extra pampering and space to sprawl, families might consider the Phoenix Inn Suites at either Albany (for those continuing south) or North Salem locations (each is just off I-5 and within 20 minutes of the park). Both hotels are all-suite with indoor swimming pools and jacuzzis, nightly fresh-baked complimentary cookies, and complimentary continental breakfasts (check their guaranteed best rates and specials here). More economical hotels and motels can be found all along the I-5 corridor, or check the list at Salem's Chamber of Commerce site (click here).

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
SUMMER SALE - Get 15% off Travels with Baby  & qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books"!

 

 

Tip #39: Bring Door Knob Covers

 

One of the great gadgets I like for childproofing on the go has also proved indispensible for childproofing at home. These doorknob covers click over the knobs of doors you don't want toddlers opening by themselves, but will want adults and even older children to be able to use frequently--and without much hassle.

 

These are perfect for keeping tots out of bathrooms, some closets, and other off-limit rooms in your house. Not to mention, they can help keep kids from exiting out the front door unescorted. Yet all you need to do as you come and go is squeeze and turn the knob.

 

When you travel, toss a couple into your suitcase to click on wherever you roam. Not only are they a great way to temporarily childproof in vacation rentals and many hotel rooms, they're a terrific way to help keep little ones safe while staying in the homes of friends and family members--without imposing on your hosts or other guests as they come and go.

 

For more great gadgets for childproofing on the go, be sure to check out my page for travel-friendly childproofing & safety products. And if you'll be visiting friends or family soon, don't miss my segment on Childproofing at Someone Else's Home that aired yesterday on ABC's The View from The Bay (click here).

 

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby
SUMMER SALE - Get 15% off Travels with Baby  & qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books" - Click here!

 

 

Tip #38: Talk Back to the TSA

 

 

After struggling to get your carry-on bags and your diaper bag and your shoes onto the X-ray belt, just before presenting your baby's bottles and your Ziploc with travel-size diaper ointment and teething gel for inspection, all the while anticipating just the right moment to yank your child out of her stroller and try to collapse it one-handed and get it up onto the X-ray belt without dropping her (she is now tucked under your other arm like a football), while a parade of business travelers snort and snuff behind you and anxiously tap their laptops that are lined up in a row of neatly organized bins dotted with perfectly polished shoes, and the gentleman at the metal detector informs you that your baby's booties must also come off and go through the X-ray detector, well... you might be tempted to offer some suggestions of your own to the security officers.

 

I'm happy to report that there are some people at the TSA who are interested in hearing your feedback now. By using the "Got Feedback?" form (click here), you can easily report your U.S. airport security experiences, good and bad. Since parents traveling with babies and small children can have their hands full as it is (quarterback mamas et al), I hope that an influx of "family feedback" will help the TSA establish more uniform ways of helping families streamline passage through security across the U.S. Where did you get the best assistance? What did they do for you? Where did you burst into tears and vow you wouldn't fly again until your child had graduated from college?

 

As it stands, the experiences of getting through airport security with a toddler at one U.S. airport versus another can be radically different. While at one airport (e.g. Oakland), your requests for assistance may be met with indifferent stares and you may be informed with a bark that your child (now completely frightened by the grouchy guard) must walk through the metal detector alone, at another (e.g. Denver) security guards may jump to help you get your carry-on items in queue and address your child with friendly competence, even presenting him with a sticker for walking through the metal detector by himself.

 

Sure, it's not the TSA's job to give everyone a warm, fuzzy feeling at security checkpoints. But let's face it, establishing standard protocol for assisting parents with strollers, car seats, and small children will help countless families (and the business travelers behind them) get through security screenings more quickly and efficiently. And hey, a sticker never hurt anything either.

 

Got feedback of your own? Post it here or tell the TSA. And remember, you'll find plenty of tried-and-true tips on clearing security with small children in Travels with Baby.

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby

The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children
SUMMER SALE - Save an extra 5% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books" - Click here!

 

 

Tip #37: Coast through the Oregon Aquarium

 

 

Newport, OR -  The Oregon Aquarium is one of the best sightseeing values to be found on the Oregon Coast, and a half-day visit should top the list of any family's to-do's while vacationing onor road-tripping throughthe Central Oregon coast.

 

The aquarium may keep you entertained and exploring for hours, which makes it an especially great site to visit with energetic children. Start out in the Oddwater exhibit, and get a load of all manner of strange looking sea life, including lion fish, enormous crabs, gorgeous jellyfish, and friends. But when your tots eventually tire of staring at fish and tankseven from the inside out, move on to the thrilling stingray touch pool (no worries, the barbs are trimmed). After that, let your kids get physical with starfish and sea anemone at the next touch pool.

 

 

 

Then it's time for fresh air and freedom outside, where a network of faux sea caves and arches lead you to and through views of Oregon's harbor seals, sea lions, and sea otters (the only sea otters you'll find in Oregon nowadays)--from both above and under the water. If you're lucky, the sea lions will put on their underwater parade while you watch, taking turns charging you (all in fun), at one of the viewing windows. We also laughed ourselves silly while visiting with a sleepy sea otter docked against the glass who suddenly decided to show off his summersaults, then went right back to his nap. With a 90,000 gallon main pool for the sea lions and additional outdoor pools, there are many viewing windows and chances to see these sea creatures from every angle.

 

Next, you'll bring your brood through the outdoor aviary, where Oregon's sea birds abound, including the popular puffin. You can play "I spy" to see where all of the sea birds are perched throughout a 30-foot rocky cliff, or watch through more underwater viewing windows as they dive beneath the water for fish.

 

Perhaps everybody's favorite attraction though, and the one you'll want to save for last, is the Passages of the Deep exhibit. Here you'll walk through the tunnel tanks, including the fabulous, crowd-pleasing shark tank. Inside these aquariums, you'll enjoy a 180-degree view and feel like you're swimming with the big fish. And don't forget to look down through the floor windows where you'll see more swimmers and part of an old shipwreck.

 

Good to know: The aquarium is a great place to let kids stretch their legs and burn off their energy, but with adventurous toddlers, you may be glad to have a safety harness to make sure they stick close to you through the darker, more crowded Oddwater area. If your child tires mid-way, you can always return to your car to get your stroller, or rent one from the aquarium for $5 single or $7 for a double. The aquarium's strollers have terrific pneumatic wheels and steering handles that make them ideal for wheeling through the light gravel in the outdoor exhibits. As you might expect, restrooms are equipped with diaper changing tables. There is a museum restaurant and gift shop to meet your nutritional and "souvenirial" needs. There is also an outdoor children's play area with climb-on sculptures of sea animals and benches for supervising parents where you can burn off any extra energy (or at least your child's) before getting back into your car.

 

When you go:

Newport is located along Highway 101 approximately half-way between the Washington and California borders (see map). The least-curvy, and most direct route from I-5 to Newport is Highway 20, which heads west from the exit for Hwy 34 / Corvallis (just south of the Albany exits). From Cannon Beach, it's a 2.5-hour drive meandering along the coast with plenty of interesting places to stop, build sand castles, picnic, or shop (sans sales tax) along the way. The aquarium is located at 2820 SE Ferry Slip Road. See this map for an overview of Newport and its points of interest. Aquarium admission is free for children through 2 years, and $8.75 for children 3 through 12 years. Adults pay $14.25. 

 

Explore some more:

Newport's Historic Bayfront is just a 5 minute drive from the aquarium, and is a terrific stop to get your Newport tourist fix of trinket shops, galleries, and restaurants while at the same time getting a feel for the city's fishing and crabbing history that continues to live on as one of its main industries today. In fact, you can eat an ice cream cone while you watch the fishing boats come and go and gawk at the impressive catches and clattering crab rings. Don't worry, adjacent to the cannery, you can buy your own steamer clams or crab to take with you.

 

If you're not in the mood to do your own cooking, I recommend The Whale's Tale here on the Bayfront for breakfast and Mo's Annex with its Yaquina Bay view tables (across the street from the original Mo's) for a filling budget lunch of clam chowder and garlic cheese bread (they've got hotdogs and other kid-pleasers, too). However, my mother, who has been eating Oregon coast clam chowder since childhood, will tell you the best "restaurant chowder" to be had is at The Chowder Bowl down at Nye Beach. (For the best clam chowder, however, you'd have to follow my great grandma's recipe.)

 

Nye Beach has been called the first "tourist playground" on the Oregon Coast, having drawn visitors since the late 19th century and before it could even be accessed by roads. My mother and aunt still have fond memories of teenage visits to the old Natatorium, but like so many bustling pleasure palaces, it eventually fell into disrepair and was leveled in 1967, as Nye Beach entered a somewhat seedy era. You'd never know it now. This is the decidedly hip district now, with cool little restaurants and cafes, and interesting lodgings like the Sylvia Beach Hotel with author-themed rooms, posh decor, and ready readingyoung children understandably not welcome. Young children, however, are more than welcome on sandy Nye Beach itself, and you'll find ample public parking at the sand's edge where the Natatorium once stood. You can read more about the history of Nye Beach here.  

 

Stay and play:

You'll find family-friendly accommodations for every budget throughout Newport. The Chamber of Commerce has a helpful list of campgrounds, hotels, and vacation rentals you can see here. Not all of the small inns or B&Bs allow children, or those under a certain age, so be sure to check their policies for any minimum ages. Numerous vacation rentals and cottages can be found throughout the area, but families on a budget may appreciate the value of the 2-BR Sky Cottage vacation rental just 2 blocks from Nye Beach. Near the aquarium, the La Quinta Inn has comfortable rooms, including suites, and a complimentary hot breakfast buffet kids are sure to love thanks to the Belgian waffle bar (sure, maybe they'll eat the other stuff, too). To find your best hotel deal in Newport, I recommend searching your dates at Kayak.com

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby

The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children
SUMMER SALE - Save 15% on Travels with Baby and qualify for FREE Super Saver shipping when you buy from "Travels with Baby Books" - Click here!

 

 

Tip #36: Fall in Love with Silver Falls Park

 

 

Silver Falls State Park, OR - Within moments of entering Silver Falls State Park, I had to wonder how I'd managed to stay away for so many years. It's not only the largest State Park in Oregon, but it has waterfalls that rival any I've seen in Hawaii or Yosemite National Park. I had my earliest experiences at Silver Falls as a girl when I got to be lucky enough each summer to come and get assigned my very own horse to groom and ride for one glorious week of "horse camp." Naturally, I grew up with the impression that this is what all forests and waterfalls are like. But this time, setting off down the path toward the magnificent 177-foot high South Falls, I marveled that this hasn't been made a National Park yet. Though I admit, I'm glad it doesn't pack the crowds we battle at some of the better-known big parks we visit.

 

This photo that I snapped while standing behind the South Falls only shows a part of the waterfall, but it's a good example of the landscape you'll find here and the memorable experiences to be had throughout this park--even if you only take the .5 mile hike to this very vantage point. Standing here, you can feel the roar of the falls travel your bones as the mist settles on your cheeks. There are several short hikes with impressive pay-offs, or you can opt to see all of the water falls on the 7-mile "Trail of Ten Falls" (a.k.a. Canyon Trail). You can view the park's trail map online as a PDF at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/images/pdf/silverfalls_trailmap.pdf . William Sullivan, author of the "100 Hikes" guidebooks, has some good hiking suggestions for Silver Falls online that may also help you plan your attack.

 

With ten water falls impressing visitors even at summer's end (though spring snow melt makes for the most spectacular falls), Silver Falls is truly a special--if not magical--place to visit. Anyone wanting to see Oregon's lush, green temperate rain forest, will find one of the best examples here.  Layer upon layer of ferns and shamrocks, Douglas fir trees, hemlocks, and mossy rocks crowd happily into every view. I marveled as I strolled beside a hedge of maidenhair ferns as high as my hips, and that's when I saw the fabled "fairy train" caterpillar (black with a row of yellow windows down its side), which my great grandma always said brought good luck. I am lucky to be here, I thought, as I showed the fairy train to my daughters. 

 

Good to know:

While there are some safety fences here and there along the trails, there are still steep staircases, drop offs, and slippery areas on trails, especially where you walk behind the larger falls. With my active toddler wanting (and needing) to be very much on her own two feet, I was glad to have our Safe-Fit backpack harness along for her (with an extra diaper/wipes, snacks, and sippy cup) to attach to my belt loop as a back up (I recommend a carabiner clip for quick attach & release--and of course, a sturdy belt loop).

 

With smaller children, you'll want a good backpack or frontpack carrier while on the trails. If you're wearing a framed backpack carrier, take extra care of your child's clearance above you if you need to duck beneath an occasional rocky overhang.

 

As with most lush, green places in Oregon, even a hot sunny day elsewhere may leave you wanting a jacket or at least long sleeves while hiking the falls. You'll also want to bring along your own water, lunch and/or plenty of snacks if you plan to spend much time in the park since you'll have a hard time finding it here.

 

The Pearsons, a local family living near the park, offer some more helpful tips on their own website: http://www.silverfallspark.org/PT/ParkTips.html, including the all-important note that there are no restrooms along the trails, so be sure to use the lovely pit toilets at the parking areas or restrooms at the picnicking/camping areas before you venture out too far.

 

When you go:

Silver Falls State Park is approximately a 1-hour drive from Portland, and you may save some time during heavy traffic by taking Hwy 99 E. If you come from Salem, or via I-5, it is 26 miles east of Salem on Hwy 22, just be sure to follow the signs for Hwy 214, which will lead you through Silverton and on to the park. You will need to purchase a $3 day-use pass for your visit, unless you are paying a fee to stay overnight in the park or have another Oregon State Parks pass. The park is open year-round, except in the case of a severe weather closure. More information at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_211.php.

 

Explore some more:

Just 15 minutes down the road, the city of Silverton offers up an irresistible small-town experience that's stood the test of time and strip malls remarkably well. Seriously, they still have penny parking meters in the picturesque olde downtown and an annual pet parade--and don't miss the "bed races" if you happen through town during Homer Davenport Days, named for the late 19th century cartoonist who was born and raised in Silverton.

 

Antique shops, flea markets, boutiques, bohemian cafes, elegant eateries, and everybody's favorite greasy spoon (you'll know when you see it) are all within a pleasant stroll of the small downtown area, which is made all the more charming in summer months by dozens of hanging flower baskets overflowing with petunias (the likes of which will rival any window box in Europe). And if you have the chance, pop by for a show at the independent movie house on the corner where you'll be treated to a slideshow of inspirational quotes and quick wit before the show, rather than a barrage of violent previews (the popcorn's not bad either). 

 

Silverton is also home to The Oregon Garden, an 80-acre botanical wonderland with 20 themed gardens and one house by Frank Lloyd Wright. Children under 7 years may visit the Oregon Garden free, and those that do will want to be sure and check out the special "Children's Garden" made just for them. Note to the stroller set: Yes, it's very stroller friendly as everything is wheelchair accessible. The Oregon Garden also hosts a summer concert series with names you will know, and children of all ages are welcome at the concerts, with free admission for those under 2 years.

 

For kicks, you can visit the "Gallon House Covered Bridge" on the edge of town. It used to be the oldest covered bridge in Oregon, but it had to be rebuilt in 1990. When Silverton was dry, this was the place where locals sought their booze in one-gallon home-stilled jugs. Nowadays, however, they can buy their liquor right in town at the one official liquor store--except, ahem, on Sundays (per Oregon state law).

 

Kids can burn off their extra energy skipping stones on Silver Creek, which runs through downtown Silverton, or running laps across the covered pedestrian bridge that spans the creek. There is also plenty of room to run and romp at the shady City Park in the city's center. To find it, just follow the signs for the art center, which by the way, is a testament to the number of artists and artisans who have made a home for themselves in this haven. The "First Friday" of each month is a celebration of the resident artists, musicians, and other local creative personalities, and the downtown blocks buzz with locals mingling and enjoying evening exhibits and special events.

 

Stay and play:

Overnight options right in the park include rustic 1- and 2-bedroom log cabins, modern cabins, modern lodges, two rentable ranches with their own bunkhouses, group camp sites, and individual tent and electrified RV campsites (backcountry camping is not allowed in the park). As you can imagine, it's a popular place for weddings, family reunions, and group retreats--and with good reason. See the brochure Where to stay at Silver Falls State Park for detailed info on all the lodging options in Silver Falls park.

 

The Prestigious Tours site has a nice collection of the lodging options in and around Silverton, including the handful of charming small inns, historic B&Bs, and even an "outback bungalow," though many of these accommodations are best suited to couples (click here to see their directory). Families might consider Cicily's Guest House, which offers three bedrooms and a furnished kitchen for a flat rate up to 4 guests, and additional guests are welcome for $25 each per night (they'll even leave your breakfast in the fridge).    

 

In fall of 2008, the Oregon Garden Resort will also open in Silverton.

 

Safe journey,

 

Shelly Rivoli, author of the award-winning guide Travels with Baby

The Ultimate Guide for Planning Trips with Babies, Toddlers, and Preschool-Age Children
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